Posts by MineCooky

    It was now a damn long time, but now you can finally think about a road trip again and even do it. And that's exactly what I'm doing now. :)


    This morning we set out, the day's stage is the Polish border approx. 600 km away. On Saturday we want to spend the day in Warsaw and meet a local follower there. Sunday we continue to Kaunas, in Lithuania, there is a good friend at home. Monday / Tuesday we will be there. Then it's slowly going back, but it's not exactly planned yet. Friday evening I arrive in Berlin, Saturday / Sunday is the season finale of Formula E. Monday I'm going to return from the trip, from Berlin via Frankfurt.


    I'm talking about us, because my parents drive the Model S in parallel to Kaunas. But they will stay there longer.


    And for all who otherwise ask:

    I drive on the Autobahn, without the lorry cruising (because I hate that) and with cruise control at 111 km / h. Charging is done at rest stops with 22 kW. In Germany I activate charging stations with mobility + via EnBW; for abroad I now have around every app. Let's see what I'll need. I haven't actively planned charging stations in advance. Usually I only check the next 1-2 stations and look for the next one when the charging stop.


    Checked the tire pressure again this morning in Rutesheim, I drive with the front at 2.3 bar and at the rear at 2.5 bar. So factory specifications, higher pressure hardly brings more range and limits the cornering speed. The first charging stop today was at EnBW. :)


    I think I will tell you once a day what was going on during the day.


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    Smart has just confirmed the following in a comment on Facebook: "The smart-Brabus GmbH joint venture between Mercedes-Benz AG and Brabus GmbH will expire at the end of 2021."


    I think the wording here is important: Mercedes Benz AG no longer has anything to say directly to smart anyway. Smart in that sense was (legally) dissolved and is now a new company, which is a joint venture between Daimler and Geely.


    .. so I think that we have to be very clear: Brabus will almost certainly continue to refine our beloved smart in the future. But they just have to rewrite the paperwork to the new company.

    Smart has apparently decided that the next special edition should only be available in the UK. That is why everyone has the steering wheel on the wrong side and there is also no German press release. Yet it does exist. :)


    The smart EQ fortwo racing green edition is only available as a right-hand drive and is worthy of its color and British-looking equipment. It is only sold in the UK.


    Personally, I am pleased that you do a little more here in the interior than you did with the solarflare last time. They even go "so far" that the steering wheel itself is reupholstered.


    Click here for the wiki entry with more pictures and details:

    smartEQfortwo racing green edition


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    From time to time I get the questions, if you can use the CHAdeMO to type 2 adapter from Tesla or the CCS to type 2 adapter, to fastcharge your smart.


    256-tesla-ccs-adapter-02-png


    257-chademo-adapter-jpg



    Would like to dedicate this thread to the topic:

    Mechanically, you can actually connect the smart with a CCS or a CHAdeMO charging station. But electrically it doesn't work. CCS and CHAdeMO are charging standards that work with direct current, i.e. they have to be connected directly to the battery. But type 2, works with alternating current, so there is a box between the charging socket and the battery, which then turns the alternating current into direct current for the battery.


    With a Tesla, the adapter with the Model S and Model X, as they have an extra circuit, which can switch type 2 directly to the battery, bypassing the charger. This has historical reasons and therefore only works at Tesla. The smart and all other electric vehicles cannot be charged with this adapter.



    "And what happens if I try anyway?"

    Nothing. The car and the charging station notice that something is wrong and therefore do not start the charge. You can't break anything. But it doesn't charge either.

    Hi guys,


    based on @Poldi's excellent German manual, I've now translated this topic for you in English:


    "Since I have dealt with the updates for the Smart Media Connect, I would like to write a little guide for you.

    Despite everything, I have to point out that I can only give the recommendations based of my personal experience and do not accept any liability for consequential damage due to incorrect implementation.


    GPS update TomTom

    Time required: approx. 30min

    What do you need:

    • USB stick with at least 1GB in FAT32 format

    The pure GPS update can be downloaded here, including instructions for installation!

    Note: My navigation system went off shortly before the end during the update! I turned it back on and everything ended automatically. It may take some time before the maps of Europe are recognized again.


    Update Smart Media Connect

    Time required: approx. 45min

    What do you need:

    • TomTom's software (Windows / Mac): Download link
    • In addition, an SD card reader (if not integrated in the PC)

    1. Take the SD card out of the Smart (Attention: switch on radio - menu - system - eject SD card)

    2. Install the software on the computer and start it

    3. Sign in with a TomTom account (already had one from the past, it works fine!)

    (if you don't have one, just create a new account)

    4. The software would like to connect your navigation system via USB - the message is misleading, but is successfully acknowledged as soon as the SD card has been inserted into the computer.

    5. Now you can install map updates, new voices etc. pp. (The actual update took about 30 minutes for me)

    6. I recommend ejecting the SD card via the taskbar and not simply pulling it out - the TomTom Smart Media Connect software should be closed beforehand (after a successful update!)


    I did the TomTom GPS update first and then the Smart Media Connect update - I can't say for sure whether one is integrated into the other.


    Maybe it will help someone - good luck! 8):) "

    Battery life should be fine, even with the extra cooling. The battery in the 7 kW smart cars is the same as the on in 22 kW cars. So it can litteraly hanldy even 3x the current. The battery can handle a battery temperature of up to 55 °C, if it axeeds that, the battery os going to slow down charging.


    However, recently during the hot weather, the cooling system comes on even when charging from the 3.5kW charger for an hour, but only for 1 to 2 minutes.

    Is it actually the battery or does the noise come from the back of the smart? If it's the back from the smart, that's the air cooling of the motor. Mine does that as well, at the current temperatueres.


    Is it better to constantly charge from 20% to 80%, or do it in one-hour sessions every 4 hours! to prolong battery life!

    Short version:

    No, it's not


    Longer version:

    The smart ED4 does a good job at balancing and cooling even if you're driving trough the whole country, charging 22 kW nonestop.


    But still, I reccomend to simply use the smart car as you need it to. The battery is totally fine with it. The battery is never actually at 100 %, when it shows 100 %. That's also why you can't compare it to a Tesla, who reccomends to not charge to 100 % all the time. Because a Tesla is actually at 100 %, when it says 100 %.


    Furthermore, the smart ED4 won't charge to 100 % (now we're talking about the value you'll actually see on the dash), if it decide you did that now to often or if the air temperature from your area is too high. You can't manually limit the battery to, for example, 90 %. But if it would have actually been good, the smart car would do so by itselfe.


    Here's also two questions from my FAQ, I wrote about the topic:

    I'm really torn ... the design itself looks nice. Think the formore will use the design language of the current fortwo and forfour. It will be another SUV, but at least with a relatively friendly design language.


    On the other hand, it's just an SUV and not necessarily what Prof. Tomforde had in mind when he launched smart.


    The formore will break with the existing customers again, as the 453 did. But from a business perspective, it's probably the right thing to do. Unfortunately, there is not enough of our current customers, and we don't want our favorite brand to simply become a brand of the past.


    Maybe it will be the car to reenter the US market?

    Daimler is working with Geely to build the next generation of smart vehicles. The first one is going be the formore called SUV, which will also realign the brand. As previously reported, it will be based on the SEA2 platform. Smart is now showing another picture of this. This time we get the top view teased.


    Smart publishes image of the formore study


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    I now have my own Xentry diagnostic device and I would like to give you some feedback at this point. The topic seems to be a book with 7 seals, where nobody can openly say how they got their stuff together. I can understand that a bit now, you shouldn't ask the supplier too many questions.


    Ultimately, you need three things if you want something like this:

    • Windows laptop
    • "multiplexer" with all cables
    • Xentry software


    As a LapTop you can use about anything that is Windows-compatible, both Windows 7 and Windows 10. It is important that it has an Ethernet connection, via which the multiplexer is connected. The multiplexer is practically a big block that somehow adapts from the laptop to the OBD connection. The software is not available directly from Mercedes, or more perciesely not at a reasonable price for the hobby sector.


    I got the laptop on ebay, in my case a Panasonic Toughbook CF-D1. A rather slow device, but sufficient for the purpose. It was important to me that it was a toughbook, but that is not mandatory. Had cost € 250, including Windows 7 and in wonderful condition and I probably don't want to know where it came from.


    I bought the multiplexer (with all cables) and the software together, in my case directly from China. I assume the multiplexer is a copy of the original. It came with an SSD on which Windows 7 and Xentry were preinstalled. Their price fluctuates constantly, I paid around 500 € for everything. Customs didn't keep it, but that's probably more a matter of luck than the rule.


    To get it to work I then had to build the SSD into the laptop and then install drivers for the laptop there. Since I've always been a mac user, that was the hardest task for me and there are probably still some missing to this day, I don't understand this topic ... (Fun fact: This is my first own Windows computer)


    The installation of Xentry then has to be completed. The seller had put all files on the desktop and an installation video. You have to follow it strictly, otherwise it won't work. For whatever reason you also have to create some file and send it to him so that he can send any other one back. This completes the installation.

    This actually is linking the software with the laptop.


    .. in my case it was after 2/3 of the video that the video no longer matched 1:1 with what the laptop did. To my surprise, the seller of the multiplexer (from China) connected via TeamViewer and finished the installation.


    In the end, it took 8 weeks or so from the first order to the finished diagnostic device. In between I thought it would never work out.


    If you have no idea about it, you have to have a lot of perseverance. I now have a diagnostic device with software version 2020 and can use it to diagnose all smarties. * The operation of the finished device is then relatively easy, you are constantly advised of all kinds of things and you can't actually break anything.


    * You only get one software version at a time, updates have to be bought separately. This is the biggest difference to the officially purchased software from Daimler.



    There are also tons of other things installed that can be used to do all sorts of great stuff, if you can. I can't (yet?), I can currently only diagnose electrical smarties with it. Especially in the case of the electric smart, the advantage of this is that you can really see and delete all errors with it. The third-party market is still a bit behind, although it has already started to catch up.


    Side note:

    Xentry and the setup I've now got does actually work for each and every OBD capable car vom Daimler. Including Mercedes cars and all sorts of Daimler trucks.

    Short version:

    No, it's not worth it.


    Longer version:

    First of all you'll need to distinguish between the smart ED3 and the smart ED4. For the ED3 it's even so, that the battery needs to be at 100 % and still be plugged in for several more houres from time to time. Don't ask my why they did it this way, but that's the only time the battery balances in a meaningfull seed. The smart ED4 on the other hand does a good job at balancing even if you're driving trough the whole country, charging 22 kW and never to 100 %.


    But still, I reccomend to simply use the smart car as you need it to. The battery is totally fine with it. As sokoloff already sayd, it's never actually at 100 %, when it shows 100 %. That's also why you can't compare it to a Tesla, who reccomends to not charge to 100 % all the time. Because a Tesla is actually at 100 %, when it says 100 %.


    Furthermore, the smart ED3, as well as the smart ED4, won't charge to 100 % (now we're talking about the value you'll actually see on the dash), if they decide you did that now to often or if the air temperature from your area is too high. So yes, you can't manually limit the battery to, for example 90 %. But if it would have actually been good, the smart car would do so by itselfe.


    Here's also two questions from my FAQ, I wrote about the topic:

    It does a bit, yes. :)


    Correct, the actual power from 0-50 km/h is about the same. But the smart responses way more direct / harder to your input, so it's still harder from 0 km/h on.


    According to the German Accumotive, the battery is rated for up to 76 kWh, as seen in the link you've mentioned. Why they still limited the motor to 60 kW, I'm not completly sure. Back when I wrote about the motor, I thought it's the battery. But as Brabus themself started offering smart cars with this performance (but for 40.-60.000 €), they proofed that everything is fine. Technically Brabus cars have the same power train as a regular smart. Only difference is, that they got the higher Brabus software.

    Does Mercedes have an actual item like this, or just the aftermarket?

    They do, my smart car has got one from the factory.


    smartEQfortwo: part number A 453 680 34 05, costs around 300 €

    smartEQforfour: part number A 453 680 33 05, costs araound 240 €

    TIPS is a Damiler internal system for the workshops. They can there open cases and check for feedback. It's a bit like a Daimler internat forum for qorkshops. So to open a case you'll need a workshop to do that for you.


    The smart EQ app has nothingto do with that, so no worrys. The connection between CarPlay and your iPhone is established with wireles nettwork from the car itselfe.

    Yea, sounds strange, here's what's up:

    On my Facebook page I used to use a great feature: multilangual posts.

    With it's help I was able to write a post and provide a Germany and a English text for it. Facebook then showed you the language which matched your Facebook settings. With the overhall of the Facebook UI they started removing it and since last week there is no way anymore for me to write posts in both languages. (Or do you know any which are still working?)


    So now I've got a Facebook-Page with 2/3 of it's follwers beeing German speaking and 1/3 beeing English speaking. Meaning I now need to rethink how I reach out to the 1/3 which I can't adress in their own language anymore.


    I could now create a new page, somthing like "EQpassion EN" or so.. but honestly I'm not very keen on that. EQpassion isn't bing enough, that it would look somewhat professional.. :(


    How well does Facebook translate posts? Do you "need" a translation?

    Or would it be a good solution to still write both, a German and a English text, but simply place them in one post.. something like that:


    "Hier ein deutscher Post, mit Weißwurst und Bier.

    --

    Here a English post, with fish and chips."


    Or what would you guys recommend?


    .. man I really hate that they removed this feature. Was a great and simply way to make your posts reach to more people. I was even able to directly adress small local differences, German eng English follwers have. (Without confusing them about the differences)

    Just asked my dealer about it again:

    "I contacted the responsible product manager again.

    The following came back:


    Hello Mr ---,

    According to the information from our technical workshop support, there will be the option of a software update.

    For this, I would recommend creating a TIPS case for the respective vehicle via the workshop, with the request to check it on the basis of the VIN. "

    Okay, here we go. It's again German, please use google translate to translate the individual steps. Should do a good job and save myself a bit of time.


    I assume, you don't need to worry about part (9), as they are the mounting points for the optional bicycle carrier.