Posts by MineCooky

    I've plugged it in to the ED3 but it is a later VIN (~ mid 2013) and although DAS/Xentry sees the ED3 it does not provide information on the important systems.

    It doesn't know it's control units. You would have to get an update for it to do so.


    I can communicate using the Arduino/CAN module described on the forum and the HV battery appears dead. (attached text file)

    That's a bug in the tool. Communication works, but the battery is so deeply discharged, that it can't show the values properly.


    Which hardware /software version have you used to communicate with your ED3?

    I've got the same hardware, but I'm using 2020 software. Google for a newer software, there are multible companies offering that.



    What we can already say by looking at the text file from the tool:

    The battery seems to have been good, bevor covid hit it. Range was close to back then, when it it was new. (I don't know how it's going to look like when you've manually recharged it) But it's defenitly deep discharged now.


    What I would do, if I where you: Start two projects at the same time

    1. Get new software for the Xentry tool
      • This way you can use it with the smart, when it's been recharged.
      • It's now 10 years old. An upgrade is overdue
      • Usually those upgrades aren't that expesive
    2. Remove the battery and start charging it
      • From the arduino tool we can already see, that the battery is defenitly deep discharged
      • By waiting for xentry you are risking cells beeing permanantly damaged
        • every day counts here


    Use the blog post I wrote about repairing the battery:


    smart ED3 17.6kWh battery repair (feat.P18051C / bricked BMS)

    but problem is that smart can't send anything here in Cro.

    I'm based in Germany. If you want to, you can DM me your account details and I'll check when the smart send the last informations. This way we could confirm if or if not the smart is sending anything in Croatia and wenether it's worth trying to get you the APK.



    Hm, how does it work at all without a gsm card

    It's a so called eSIM. Technically it works more or less the same as a physical sim card, but you don't need a physical sim card. You could compare it with the eSIM of an iPhone or a Apple Watch.

    Link is not working on my phone with: Diese App ist für keines deiner Gerät verfügbar

    Was worth a try.


    I fear even if you had the app installed, you couldn't register an account (through your dealer) and even if you managed to do that, the smart can't send and recieve anything in Croatia. :(

    reversing the unit

    Which unite?



    I would then like to fit additional batteries within the subframe to provide more range and if so would I need to change the controller?

    What I would do: Leave the software where it is and simply build a second 400 V battery pack, which I wire in paralell to the existing one. Should be rather easy. :)

    It depends somewhat on what approach you take. But I'll try to unravel it a bit. Basically, an electric car is significantly more energy-efficient; 80% are actually used. On the other hand, combustion engines are said to be 30-40% efficient.


    Some say: The internal combustion engine is consciously called the internal combustion engine and not a moving machine.


    The question is always how much of the energy used can actually be used for moving and how little energiie is simply "lost" as heat. Or to put it another way: The question is always how much of the energy used actually gets onto the road.


    For example an approach:

    Petrol has a calorific value of approx. 8.6 kWh / liter. The smart needs 15-17 kWh / 100 km, i.e. approx. 2 liters, if you could use 100% of the energy from the gasoline for driving. (Certainly there are also some here that can drive it more economically. But the numbers used are my numbers)


    The following simplified formula would be suitable for your question:

    [Consumption in kWh]: 8.6 kWh / liter = [converted petrol consumption in liters]

    17 kWh: 8.6 kWh = 1.97 L

    .. that's how people come up with statements like "An electric car only needs 2 liters of fuel".



    If we spin this formula further and include the above mentioned 30-40%, as well as 80%, then we calculate as follows:

    17 kWh x 0.80 = 13.6 kWh (net electricity consumption - electric car)

    8.6 kWh x 0.35 = 3.01 kWh (net energy consumption - petrol car)


    (17 kWh / 100 km) : (3.01 kWh / 10 km) = 5.7 liters per 100 km


    .. if we assume that an electric car needs 17 kWh per 100 km, then with a petrol engine it would need 5.7 liters per 100 km. (The 17 kWh is an empirical value from me, the smart needs a lot because it is not particularly streamlined. For example, a Tesla Model 3 only needs 10-15 kWh with the same driving style, but we don't go down this rabbit hole now .. )


    But the question is usually not about energy efficiency, because we don't see that in our wallets. The question is about the cost of electricity. You can calculate that as follows:

    [Consumption over 100 km in [kWh or liter]] x [Energy costs in [kWh or liter]] = Energy costs in [kWh or liter] over 100 km


    .. so for example:

    (17 kWh / 100 km) x (0.30 € / kWh) = 5.10 € per 100 km

    (5.7 liters / 100 km) x (1.45 € / liter) = 8.26 € per 100 km


    Of course, you can still argue in detail about whether the kWh and liter prices are correct or are assumed to be too high / too low. I recommend everyone to see for themselves what they pay for electricity at home, or what gasoline costs at the local gas station.



    Hope I was able to get that across in an understandable way. :)

    Replacing th steering wheel isn't hard hat at. It's just unscrewing the old on, unplugging everything and placing the new one on it. Just be aware of the airbag. The Mercedes dealer should be able to unlock the extra functionality of it for you.


    Hard would be getting the cruise control working, if your steering wheel had it. For some reason Mercedes won't do that for you. At least they only offered me to just do the peddles. Crousie control had to be manually done by a friend of me.

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    Moritz aka MineCooky

    In the recent EAM podcast (German), it is the topic and I am currently wondering whether one sees a direction in which the formore could also go. At least it would fit pretty well into the platform it will be based on. (see my blog post about this)


    How do you think about the key data, would you like that or what would you like to have different?


    Vehicle designation:Audi Q4 Sportback 50 e-tron quattro
    Vehicle description:Mid-size SUV
    Drivetrain
    Design:1 asynchronous motor on the front axel, 1 permanent magnet synchronous motor on the rear axel
    Power:220 kW
    Tourque460 Nm
    BATTERY & CHARGING STANDARD
    Energy content (gross / net):82 kWh/76,6 kWh
    Battery guarantee:8 years or 160,000 km (SoH> 70%)
    Thermal management:Liquid thermal management
    AC charging standard:Typ 2 11 kW 3p
    DC charging standard:CCS 125 kW
    Charging time AC 11 kW charging station 0-100%:7 h 30 min
    Charging time DC 50 kW charging station 5-80%:~ 1 h 10 min
    Charging time DC 350 kW charging station 5-80%:~ 38 min
    DRIVING PERFORMANCE
    Top speed:180 km/h
    Acceleration (0-100 km / h):6,2 s
    RANGE & CONSUMPTION
    WLTP:420-497 km
    NEFZ:N/A
    EPA:N/A
    Consumption (WLTP):20,9–17,5 kWh/100 km
    DIMENSIONS & WEIGHT
    Length x width (without mirror) x height:4,588 m x 1,865 m x 1,614 m
    Width (with mirror):2,108 m
    Wheelbase:2,764 m
    Luggage space:535-1.460 l
    Frunk:-
    Empty weight:2.215 kg
    Trailer load (braked / unbraked):1.200 kg / 750 kg
    drag coefficient:0,27
    cW x A:0,691 m²
    PRICE
    Germanystarting at 55.600 € (incl. vat)
    Austriastarting at 57.920 € (incl. vat)